Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the difference between engineered and solid wood floors?

While both are made from natural wood materials, the difference is in the manufacture of each product. Solid wood is produced by taking a log and cutting it into slabs, which are then made into wood planks. (This is the oldest form of wood floors.) Engineered floors are made by taking multiple slats of hardwood (mainly pine or birch) which are glued together in a crossed pattern, then gluing the wear layer of hardwood flooring on top. Engineered hardwood floors are typically 75% more stable than solid wood flooring.

Engineered Hardwood Flooring

What’s the difference between engineered hardwood and laminate floors?

Engineered hardwood is what most people know as hardwood, as is described above. Laminates differ in that they are made from a HDF (high density fiberboard) core. They have a photographic image which is bonded to the top of the core board, and is sealed on top and bottom with a melamine or aluminum oxide coating.

How are engineered and solid hardwood floors installed?

See preferred methods of installation on website per product.

Some engineered and solid hardwood floors look similar to laminates - are they?

Yes and no. Some engineered and solid hardwood floors come with multiple slats already bonded together, which is done at the manufacturer and makes it easier to install yourself. These are not laminates, because engineered and solid hardwood floors are made of real wood species while laminates are not.

Which flooring product is better: laminate, solid or engineered hardwood?

It all depends upon your lifestyle, taste, budget, installation method as well as the type of subfloor you are installing over, whether concrete or wood.

Why should all engineered and solid hardwood floors acclimate for at least 48-72 hours?

This allows the wood to expand and contract in unopened boxes as it acclimates to the new temperature of the area where you will be installing your floors. This will ensure a tight fitting floor upon installation.

Why must engineered hardwood that’s being floated need a proper underlayment with a moisture/vapor barrier?

The vapor barrier keeps moisture out of the wood from the concrete or wooden subfloor, which results in the underlayment allowing the floor to float.

Why must I leave a 3/8 expansion gap around all walls?

Most manufacturers suggest at least a ¼ inch gap. This allows the proper space for expansion and contraction.

What plank width should I buy?

Our plank comes in various widths of 3-1/4", 3-5/8" and 5" . Not all species are available in all sizes. Consideration must be given to the size of the room when selecting the width of the planks. Narrower strips make a room look longer while wider strips make the room looks shorter.

Will my floor change color as it ages?

As a natural material, wood will experience subtle changes of color to a richer tone over time. The changes are desirable and expected, regardless of grade and species. Exposure to sunlight will also affect color change.

I noticed that the colors of my floor are different between the area covered up with rugs and the uncovered area. What can I do?

If a rug is placed on a hardwood floor, a variation in color may occur between the covered area and the uncovered area. When the rug is removed from the floor, the particular area will eventually change its color to the same shade as the exposed area.

What kind of maintenance is required?

Maintenance is simple. You only need to sweep, dust, vacuum or dry-mop the surface of the flooring.

How many times can I refinish these floors?

It depends upon the thickness of the wear layer, the amount of traffic on the floors, and the lifestyle of the customer (for example, if the customer has pets or children).

How can I remove small scratches from my floor?

For small scratches, we recommend purchasing a touch-up kit, available at your local home improvement store.

Should I wax my floor to keep it shiny?

No waxing is required. Simply dry-mop, sweep, dust or vacuum to maintain the floor. (Note: Some vacuum cleaners have a rigid nylon or plastic beater bar which rotates at high speeds, producing friction and heat which could potentially damage your floor. Caution should be exercised when using a vacuum cleaner.)

Why do I need transitional moldings, such as t-moldings, reducers, threshold (end caps), stair nose, baseboards (wall base) and quarter rounds?

T-moldings are used to transition between solid, engineered hardwood and tile, solid and engineered hardwood to laminate and any other surface with the same height.

Reducers are used to transition between engineered or solid hardwood and carpet, vinyl, LVT (luxury vinyl tile), concrete or any lower surface.

Thresholds are used to transition between two sliding glass doors, closet doors with tracks, wall mirrors, or any flat surface meeting engineered or solid hardwood floors.

Stair nose is used on steps to keep a uniformed look from one step to another, and makes the set of steps look like a complete unit. A stair nose is also used in sunken rooms from one level to the next.

Baseboards are used to cover expansion gaps and to give the floor the most beautiful transition and beauty around the perimeter of the room.

Quarter rounds are designed to cover a 3/8 inch expansion gap. It is 11/16 inch in matching species or raw material. It also adds beauty to the floor.

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